Epic Tim Emmett Route Gets Third Ascent by Sonnie Trotter
The stunning line on Anvil Island near Vancouver contains some of the steepest sport climbing in the whole Sea-to-Sky corridor
In 2020, Tim Emmett made the first ascent of his Anvil Island project, naming the route Apnea and grading it 5.14a. The beautiful line works its way up past 20 bolts on a seriously steep wall hanging over the blue waters of the Howe Sound. Shortly after Emmett’s FA, local crusher Ben Harnden flashed the route after receiving beta from Emmett.
The route didn’t see another ascent in the 2021 or 2022 seasons. Sonnie Trotter spent a day at the crag last year and worked the moves on the route. He went back this past weekend to give the it another try. He botched his second go after breaking a hold up high but managed to send on his third attempt of the day.
Trotter found a new sequence for the crux section, avoiding a tiny right crimp used by Emmett. With this new beta, Trotter’s suggested a grade of 5.13d, which Emmett agrees with. “It’s a fitness test for certain and a brilliant journey through some of the steepest, funnest climbing in the Sea to Sky,” said Trotter about the line.
Emmett has spent a lot of time on Anvil in recent years, helping develop the crag and establish new routes. Anvil Island is a truly special climbing area. The crag sits over the scenic Howe Sound and you need a boat, Skidoo, or SUP to get there. You won’t find it any guidebook. While at the crag, it doesn’t feel like you’re in Vancouver or Squamish. It doesn’t even feel like you’re in BC or Canada.
On May 26, Emmett made the first ascent of an even harder, more epic route on Anvil, Archimedes Principle 5.14b. The route is a serious step up from Apnea. It has a considerably tougher crux and only one lousy rest position where the climber is forced to be nearly horizontal in order to shake out. You can watch Emmett’s sends on Archimedes Principle and Apnea in the videos below.
Tim Emmett FA of Apnea
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