First Ascent of a 4,500-Foot 5.12+ in B.C. – Smoke and Mirrors
The film featuring the first ascent of this mega Canadian alpine rock route just dropped, watch below
Will Stanhope and Tim Emmett complete the first free ascent of the south ridge of Mount Combatant in the Waddington Range in August 2024. Twenty years ago to the year, John Furneaux and Matt Maddaloni made the first ascent of The Smoke Show at 5.13 A0 with Paul Bride taking photos.
“The crux pitch was a beak protected thin crack and face that I was able to do all the moves on but fell once on our 16.5 hour push,” said Maddaloni. “4,500 feet of rock climbing with zero bolts. John climbed a spectacular 55-metre wide crack at 5.12 shown in the video [below] that Will is climbing.
“Full circle for me to come back and film the boys sorting out and sending this incredible line. Will discovered a variation pitch around the crux and with my permission bolted the line to make for a really really fun and but still run-out 5.12+ overhanging pitch. They also put in bolted anchors on the steep pitches upping the fun factor substantially by reducing the large cam rack required. Tim sent the pitch on their send and Will repeated the 55m wide pitch as well! This resulted in the entire south buttress finally going free (fourth attempt by four different parties).”
Watch a short film by Maddaloni featuring Stanhope and Emmett’s ascent.
