First Flight: Canada’s newest 5.14c
Josh Muller has made the first ascent of a 2013 project bolted by Calgary’s Lev Pinter.
Muller is one of Canada’s strongest climbers, having sent Bunda de Fora 5.14d and a number of V14s. His home crag is Acephale, so it is no surprise that he would send one of the long standing projects. He named his new route First Flight.
“After the first crux of Prime Time 5.14c, a powerful double-gaston-iron-cross sort of move, then the First Flight business starts,” said Muller. “The route does not let up, with big moves between bad holds and bad feet. I blew it a few times at the upper crux which is higher than most chains at Acephale. It has a huge throw off the ‘birds nest hold’ to a slopping edge, then you have to find a way out of the super-stretched-out position. I went for a hand-heel match which I could barely stick.”
First Flight goes to the top of the wall which makes it the longest route at Acephale. “I found it extremely hard to control the pump. I was redlining for most of the moves, maxing out on even the ‘easy’ sections,” said Muller. “A great learning experience for me.”