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First Winter Ascent of Alpine Line in Greece

Three climbers followed a technical ice and mixed line up a rock route first climbed 30 years ago

Three climbers have teamed up to make the first winter ascent of a line on the northeast face of the 1,987-metre Tsouka Rossa in Greece.

Dimitris Daskalaki, Spyros Kyriakou and Christos Tsoutsias followed a ribbon of ice and nevé up Ourliahto tis Petaloudas (Scream of the Butterfly), a route that was first climbed in the summer of 1994. Daskalaki, Kyriakou and Tsoutsias spent nearly 24 hours climbing car-to-car.

Planet Mountain reported the FA team as saying, “The Scream of the Butterfly is an iconic climb for the local alpine community that had targeted this line of ice that splits the rock massif in two for more than 20 years. Finding it in good condition is extremely difficult and various attempts had been made unsuccessfully in the past. It has been considered as the most demanding alpine route in Greece. Our thoughts go to our mentors who dreamt of this climb, those who still climb aside us, those who have retired and those who have passed away.”

The peak has several classic routes up limestone that varies in quality, for more information visit  here.

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