Five Big Bouldering Sends This Week
From first of the grades to Nova Scotia's Jen Wright crushing to V15 repeats, the world of bouldering has been busy
In many places around the world, bouldering conditions are as good as they get. In the past few months, there’s been a lot of big sends, like Dai Koyamada’s new Ochimizu V15/16 and Timothy Kang’s ninth ascent of Too Big To Flail V10 highball, more on that here.
In Canada, conditions have been excellent at the Niagara Glen, which has led to sends like Brian Fernandes and Cisco Juanes’s of Metamorphosis V10. Juanes said, “First of the grade. Beyond psyched to have finally done this one after 13 months of projecting. Great climb with good movement. Hopefully it doesn’t break again anytime soon.”
Conditions in Squamish had been good over a week ago before the wet weather arrived. Below are five headline-making ascents from the past week. Below are five headline-making ascents from the past week.
Carbosauraus V10/11
In Nova Scotia, Jen Wright sent Horizontal Transformer V10 early in the fall and repeated Carbosauraus V10/11 at Land of Confusion this week.
Carbosauraus V11 was first climbed by Scott Richardson in 2012 and it’s been repeated a handful of times over the years. Watch top U.K. climber Louis Parkinson send it here.
Prospectors V11
Olympic-qualified Brooke Raboutou, 19, and Natalia Grossman, 19, both sent Prospectors V11 in St. Vrain, Colo., this week. Raboutou has now climbed nearly 40 problems from V11 to V14 this year alone.
The Big Island V15
Nathan Michel’s send train continues after having sent five V14s with The Big Island, his second V15. The 27-year-old
“Though at the end of November, conditions looked like they were going to be excellent, so I planned another trip in Font,” he said. “The first session allowed me to get back into the sequences and then, the morning after, I finally sent it on my second try of the day.”
Bügeleisen Sit V15
Bouldering Euro Youth Cup 2019 winner, Nicolai Užnik, has done his first V15 with Bügeleisen sit in Maltatal. The stand variation was put up by Klem Loskot in 2001.
”You climb three/four moves until you‘re in the stand-start position,” said Užnik. “The moves are not really hard but you get tired, so obviously it makes it a lot more difficult to climb the whole boulder from the sit. About 12 moves in total.”
Riverbed V13
Tiba Vroom, 21, send her first V13 with Riverbed in Magic Wood. “I’m so incredibly happy that I had the opportunity to stay in Magic Wood and fight this battle to climb Riverbed,” Vroom said.
“More than just physical, it was a real mental battle. So many ups and downs, insecurities, victories. For the first time in my life I feel like I really came face to face with myself, and this trip has tought me so many lessons I am incredibly grateful for.” Watch the send below.
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