Four Big Sends in Canada in 2019
These are just a handful of the many new standout alpine climbs in the Canadian Rockies this year
As the year comes to an end, it’s a tradition here at Gripped to look back over the past 12 months at some of the new routes and epic sends.
From new moderate bouldering problems to mega alpine lines, there’s been a lot of memorable climbs from coast to coast to coast.
There were dozens of hard sport sends across Canada this year, below are four that made headlines. Be sure to follow Gripped on Instagram below.
Dan Beland Completes Big Show
West Coast climber Dan Beland climbed Superman 5.14c on the Big Show in Cheakamus Canyon north of Squamish this spring. It was the only route on the steep wall that he hadn’t climbed. Beland’s journey to send all nine of the hard Big Show routes started in 2013 with a tick of Free Will 5.13c and was followed by a climb of Division Bell 5.13d.
In 2016, Beland sent Supermanboy 5.14c and in 2017, he climbed Captain America 5.14b. Beland took 2018 off from climbing on the Big Show, “Last year, I took a step back from The Big Show after getting an emotional beatdown in 2017 trying to climb Superman. After sending Captain America, I spent another two months trying to finish Superman. It actually shares the same lower crux which I had previously done. However, after falling on that crux another 50 times from the ground I was starting to feel pretty burnt out.”
Beland came back stronger than ever and climbed Superman this spring and became one of only a few climbers to send every route on the Big Show. Superman was first climbed by Sonnie Trotter and is Beland’s fifth 5.14c. Beland said after, “Last one on the Big Show. Feels good to finally finish this up. I sent Free Will in 2013 and I’ve spent most of my summers since then working towards finishing the wall. It’s been a hell of a ride.”
Dreamcatcher Sent
Nicholas Milburn spent around 10 weeks over three seasons piecing Dreamcatcher 5.14d in Squamish together. He is the seventh climber on record to have sent the test-piece which climbs a rising traverse up slopers and pin scars on the Cacodemon Boulder below The Chief.
“I came really close last year, but ran out of time,” said Milburn. “I trained hard before returning this year to make sure I would be strong enough to send. The weather was also the best I have ever seen in Squamish. The day I sent was super windy which made a huge difference. Matty [Hong] taught me some advanced sport climbing strategies and I finally caught the dream. I’m psyched that such an iconic route is my first of the grade.”
Gracie Williamson, 13, Sends Big Kahuna 5.13d
Young Ontario crusher Gracey Williamson repeated Big Kahuna at Lion’s Head in Ontario. The vertical 5.13d was first climbed by legendary climber Jerry Moffatt in 1994 and is considered a test-piece at the grade.
“She worked it for a year,” said Gracey’s father, top local climber Greg Williamson. “She fell at the last bolt at the end of the season last fall then had to wait until now for it to be dry and have good conditions again.”
Alex Fricker Sends Three Year Project
Canmore-based Alex Fricker climbed his first 5.14a last October while on an extended trip through Europe. On his Oct. birthday, he put down Geminis in Rodellar, Spain. Previous to that, Fricker’s first 5.13d was in 2016 with his send of Endless Summer at Acephale.
Earlier this year, Fricker made the likely sixth ascent of Fit Bird Direct 5.14a in Echo Canyon. Fricker now adds another 5.14 to his growing list with his send of Leviathan 5.14a at Acephale.
Finally. So happy to have sent my long term project, Leviathan 5.14a/8b+,” said Fricker. “After three seasons of effort and falling on one of two moves for most of that time it was a huge relief to take it to the top. Time to restart the process and move to the next chunk of rock.”
The steep Upper Acephale route was first climbed by Scott Milton and bolted by Lev Pinter. It passes eight bolts, has an incredibly sharp tooth and requires boulder power combined with power endurance.
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