Fred Moix has sent the famous Greenspit 5.14a roof crack at Valle dell’Orco in Italy. Moix belayed Didier Berthod on the first free ascent of the route in 2003.
The hard route has been repeated a number of times, including ascents by Yuji Hirayama, Nico Favresse, Tom Randall and Stevie Haston. Moix is writing daily updates and stories about the steep route. On his first update, he wrote, “On the 7th of October I redpointed my 2nd trad route: the iconic and legendary roof crack Greenspit.
“It’s kind of a love story for me with this route as I was belaying my close friend Didier Berthod in 2003 during the first historical pinkpoint ascent of Europa’s hardest crack and was lucky enough to shoot that special picture (stay tuned for the next post) which went published worldwide just after.
“This route kind of launched Didier’s career as a climber and totally rocketed my photographer’s one on the side of my main passion as an osteopath. Climbing this amazing crack this fall was very special to me, added to the facts that a few weeks before I wasn’t really knowing the colors and sizes of the protections and that over the past 13 years it wasn’t often repeated despite the fame surrounding it. Feeling pretty proud to be part of the small club.” Follow Moix’s story on Instagram here.
Berthod was one of the world’s leading traditional climbers in the mid-2000s. Before Sonnie Trotter sent Cobra Crack 5.14 in Squamish, Berthod was close to the redpoint. Berthod decided to give up climbing and to follow a life dedicated to religion. He left his life in Squamish and moved to Europe.
Greenspit is considered one of the world’s most classic roof cracks.