Giuliano Cameroni Opens Third Eye V15
The Swiss climber makes the first ascent of yet another five-star problem
On April 10, Giuliano Cameroni made the first ascent of Eye in the Sky V15 (8C) in Ticino, Switzerland’s Val Bavona. “Super psyched on this one,” said Cameroni on Instagram. “One of my all time favorites for sure. Last year I started trying this bloc with [Kim Marschner] and [Dave Graham] after they hiked up the hill and found this higher sector. Since the beginning we realized that it was a great mix of power and technique where both feet precision and body tension were required. This year I focused more on it and after some work it finally came together!”
Cameroni initially thought the line would clock in at V16, but a crimp broke at the start, allowing for an easier sequence. “Still hard 8C in my opinion,” added Cameroni. “Super psyched nonetheless and thanks to everybody for the great sessions!”
After making the first ascent of Eye in the Sky, Cameroni opened a variation of the line called Third Eye, which also goes at V15. The crimpy line starts as for Eye in the Sky but then climbs straight through the overhanging face. The crux can be done a few different ways, but each method features a double-clutch dyno crux. You can watch Cameroni’s first ascent of the wild new problem in the newly released Mellow video bellow.
Cameroni is one of the best boulderers in the world and prolific first ascensionist in Switzerland. He’s established many of the country’s hardest and finest lines, with examples like REM V16, Poison the Well V16, Mystic River V15, and Hazel Grace V15, among many, many others. According to his 8a.nu page, he has four V16s and 22 V15s to his name, with many of them being first ascents.
Giuliano Cameroni’s FA of Third Eye V15
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