Godzilla is a new 5.9 four-pitches all-bolted route on Kanga South (aka Whitemans Crag) above Upper Grassi Lakes parking area in Canmore.
The first ascent was in June 2018 by Dave Smart and Brandon Pullan with later route cleaning help from Re Cairney, James Walter, John Price and Cory Rogans.
Like all Rockies’ routes, there will be loose and flaky rocks for a few seasons and don’t throw any big boulders off because they might reach the road below. If you’re not comfortable climbing on loose rock then stick to older, better travelled multi-pitch routes.
Just rocked the first ascent of Godzilla, new 5.9 four-pitch route with @david__smart12346. It’s not open yet but it climbs amazing rock with an exposed arête and fun stemming corners. Will be good to go soon. Was an awesome week climbing and presenting at @patagoniabanff with the boss. Stay tuned! #climbing #rockclimbing #canmore #godzilla1954 #grippedmagazine
As of the fall, the route had over 50 ascents and has been guided. The grades will surely change over time as it cleans up, but for now the following description includes the most agreed upon grades.
It’s named Godzilla to stick with the movie-themed names that Pullan has established on the same wall, which include Hot Fuzz 5.8 and Sharknado 5.8, a two- and four-pitch route.
Approach: Head up to Hot Fuzz and Sharknado above Upper Grassi Parking. Continue along scree to obvious switchback. Head up to group of a few trees at lowest part of the wall left of Hot Fuzz.
P1: Head up and right past bolts to arête. Up slab to corner. Good jugs up to small ledge and dirty crack. Up past a tree on right (good to grab) to slab and anchor. (5.7 10 bolts)
P2: Move up chimney to bolt, head left on good side pulls and jugs to left of roof. Use left wavy crimps and small feet with arête to big holds and upper arête climbing. Up ledge to anchor. (5.9 6 bolts)
P3: Up corner, step right past first bolt, then up and back left into corner past second. Up good crack then move right past third bolt to upper wall. Fun face climbing to steeper bulge. Clip bolt and move left to finer rail and another bolt. Mantle ledge to anchor. (5.8 8 bolts)
P4: Up left of trees and onto slab below corner. Stay left of bolts on good rock to corner. Stem and crimp up wicked corner, staying left of bolts. At the top, find good holds left of bolts until obvious to stem and traverse over to the top of a flake/ledge (will continue to clean up). Up thin slab up right to anchor. (5.9 10 bolts)
Gear: 12 quickdraws, 70-metre rope, Helmets
Descent: Rappel route. Might be possible with 60m rope, but haven’t tried. Bring a 70 for now. Watch for falling rocks when you pull your rope. Rappel the chimney from pitch three to pitch two.