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Hard New Alpine Routes in Nepal and Peru

Two strong teams have opened technical 1,000-metre-plus routes up rock and ice on steep faces

Alpine climbing conditions have improved in many of the world’s great ranges over the past few weeks, which has led to several first ascents of serious mountain lines.

In Nepal, Marek Holecek and Matej Bernat made the first ascent of a 1,300-metre climb up the northwest face of Sura Peak (6,764 m) called Simply Beautiful. Holecek breaks down their climb from start to finish over a few Instagram posts below. Their ascent took three days up and 11 hours down.

And in Peru, Yudai Suzuki and Kei Narita of Japan made the first ascent of the north face of Nevado Ausangate in the Andes. The peak is the tallest in the Cusco and Lake Titicaca region, and is the second highest in southern Peru.

Suzuki and Narita’s new 1,100-metre route is called Japones Directo and goes at 5.10a WI6. The route took them five days and in the end, Suzuki said it was “definitely the most challenging climbing of my life.”