Hard New Mixed Routes Climbed in Europe
Excellent conditions have resulted in several test-piece winter lines established over the past few weeks
While most of North America’s mountains started the year in a deep freeze, good conditions and mild temps in Europe have allowed for a flurry of new routes to be climb.
Francesco Favilli, Christian Casanova and Mathieu Maynadier have made the first ascent of a new mixed route called Mixte Feeling at M6+ WI5 on the northeast face of Civetta in the Dolomites. Maynadier and Dan Ladurner also just made the first ascent of Kill the Duck, a wild M8 WI5. And Marco Cordin and Martino Piva made the first ascent of Nunca Con Prisa, Siempre Con Gana on Castello di Vallesinella, the 120-metre steep mixed line gets the stout grade of M9 WI5+.
More recently, Enrico Lovato and Federico Asciolla made the first ascent of Il Cigno Nero, a 320-metre M7 WI5+ on the northeast face of Cima Falkner. And Martin Sieberer and Lukas Waldner made the first ascent of Diretissima on the north face of Schrammacher in the Zillertal Alps, an 800-metre M7 AI6.
And in the world of skiing, Sam Favret, Laurent Bibollet, Julien Herry made the likely the first ski descent of a big gully on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc’s Vallée Blanche. About the conditions, Herry said, “Snow was variable but OK for riding, but most important it felt safe! Last turns above the big cliff at the bottom felt spicy and we didn’t dare to go too close to the void.”
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