Top climber Hazel Findlay has repeated the classic Groove pitch of The Quarryman E8 7a in the Llanberis slate quarries, North Wales. It’s the most classic section of the four-pitch route that goes at E6, E5, 8a (5.13b), 7c+ (5.13a).
Findlay mentioned her send of the Groove while mentioning that she needs to return to send the full route. She climbed the pitch on the same weekend that her partner Angus Kille sent all pitches on lead. French climber Caroline Ciavaldini made the first female ascent of the full route in 2018.
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This pitch is all about pushing and nothing about pulling. Was cool to do it yesterday and witness @angus.kille send the whole route (4 tricky pitches). I’ll be back for the whole thing in a day once my triceps have reformed (they are currently made of mush). The famous Jonny Dawes classic ‘The Quarryman’. Thanks @ray_wood for the photos. @blackdiamond @lasportivagram
Findlay and Kille fixed a 100-metre rope so they could sort out the moves and continue to climb during the covid reopening when lead climbing wasn’t yet allowed. They also replaced most of the original bolts.
Kille is one of the U.K.’s top bold climbers, with other hard climbs including Gribin Wall Climb E9 6c, Indian Face E9 6c and Leo Houlding’s Trauma E8/9 7a. He’s also ticked hard routes outside of Europe, such as El Corazón VI 5.13 on El Cap.
“Working in a climbing shop back in Shropshire I kept putting on the DVD of Committed to see James Pearson and Dave MacLeod climbing Trauma,” Kille wrote in an article for his sponsor DMM. “Sometimes it’s your climbing heroes that make a route what it is, sometimes it’s the iconic venue or often just the moves. This route has all of that.”
About Quarryman, Kille said: “This route deserves its reputation – it has some of the best vertical, slabby and esoteric slate climbing in Wales. The famous Groove pitch combines subtle climbing with some pretty brutish thrutching, but the other pitches on this route are often overlooked, even though they are worth a visit on their own.”
Watch Dawes on his famous Groove pitch below.
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Very groovy climbing on The Quarryman yesterday… . This route deserves its reputation – it has some of the best vertical, slabby and esoteric slate climbing in Wales. The famous groove pitch combines subtle climbing with some pretty brutish thrutching, but the other pitches on this route are often overlooked, even though they are worth a visit on their own . I challenged myself to climb all four pitches in a day, which doesn't sound like much but it turned out to be quite a lot of things to get right in one push. It ended up being the perfect day out, thanks to the support of @hazel_findlay who also sent this groove pitch 💪 . Thanks @ray_wood for the photos (the last one is my own – glad I replaced those bolts!) . The Quarryman E8 / F8a / ungradable classic . @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk @rab.equipment @seatosummituk @climbskinspain @hard.bar #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #rockclimbing #wearerab #scarpaclimb #slate #snowdonianationalpark #cymru #climbing_is_my_passion #slate #groovy