Top trad climber Hazel Findlay has climbed Muy Caliente! E9 6c, a hard trad route found at Pembroke, Wales. The test-piece line was first climbed by Tim Emmett a decade ago, and has been repeated by a few climbers, including James Pearson and Babsi Zangerl.
Emmett and other climbers gave the bold climb E10, but Findlay suggested E9, which would be a slight downgrade in its seriousness. After the FA, Emmett said, “It’s hard to say whether it’s E10 because I haven’t done one before. I have done Meshuga E9 and Chicama E9… I think E10 is a fair suggestion.”
Findlay said, “Setting off up the run-out and committing to the route felt like a relief in comparison to the uncertainty of pacing around beneath the route. I briefly considered down-climbing after feeling the greasy first crimp of the crux, but harnessed my inner Tim Emmett and decided to go for it. A power scream kept me on the rock and I managed to keep myself together for the rest of the route.”
Findlay was the first British woman to free El Cap, which she’s done four times: she made the first female ascent of Golden Gate in 2011, the first female ascent of Pre-Muir Wall in 2012, and an ascent of Freerider in only three days in 2013. In 2017, she free-climbed the Salathé Wall. In Yosemite, she also sent Magic Line 5.14cR trad.
And in Canada, she made the first free ascent of Adder Crack 5.13a trad and Tainted Love 5.13dR trad in Squamish. Sport climbing, Findlay’s ticked 5.14+ in a number of countries. She’s a climbing coach and podcast host, be sure to follow her on Instagram below.