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Historic Send for Giorgia Tesio in Italy

Giorgia Tesio has climbed Hyaena at Finale Ligure in Italy for the famous route’s first female ascent.

Andrea Gallo was 22 when he made the first ascent in 1986 and over the past 30 years, the climb has become the benchmark for the 5.13b/c.

On the way down from the top of one of my greatest achievements: Hyena! This wonderful piece of history is only one hour far away from my home, I’ve started trying it after my holidays in Spain: I was very motivated and I wanted to find a project before the beginning of comps. But it took less time than I expected: only two days and six tries, seven counting the one which I did three years ago. I’m so satisfied! Now I’m even more motivated to train and compete again! Thanks to my dad for the support, but also a big hug to @camilla.moroni (who is very close to do it as well), her father and @pietrobiagini . @climbingtechnology @e9clothing @scarpaspa #ctclimbing #climbingtribe #ctteam #scarpaspa #scarpateam #e9team #e9clothing

A post shared by Giorgia Tesio (@giorgia.tesio) on

The hard climb is in northern Italy is found at the Alveare di Monte Sordo wall.

Tesio, 17, found her top competitive climbing background useful on the powerful and reachy crimps and sent the route after six tries this year.

“I have always loved this route, for the line and the style,” said Tesio. “I tried it first time three years ago at the end of a climbing day but I was really tired and the pitch had seemed to me too hard.

“After this period and some days in Spain, I tried it again and this time I had all different sensations. In total I spent seven attempts and don’t think to resolve it so quickly.”

Tesio made the first female ascent of the classic Chay 5.13d, found at Albenga, a few years ago at the age of 14.

She won the European Boulder Youth Championship in 2015 and 2016. In 2017, she won Combined for European and Italian.

Giorgia Tesio – Portrait from CoreFamily on Vimeo.