A team of Americans have made the first ascent of Link Sar (7,041m) in Eastern Karakoram, Pakistan. The team included Steve Swenson, Chris Wright, Graham Zimmerman and Mark Richey, but details of the climb will be on hold as the climbers are on their long and tricky descent. This was Swenson’s fourth attempt at the peak.

Wright, Swenson and Zimmerman attempted the peak in 2017 via the east face, but were forced off due to bad weather and dangerous conditions. Wright, who has made a dozen expeditions to the greater rangers, describes Link Sar as, “A stunning, oft-tried, yet unclimbed granite monster in a seldom-visited valley in the heart of the Karakoram… it is undoubtedly one of the most compelling undone peaks of the greater ranges.”

With over 1,200 days climbing in and around the Karakoram, it’s fair to say that Swenson was the most experienced veteran on the trip. If you haven’t read his book Karakoram then you should make it your next book, see a review on it here. Reaching the summit is only half the work and descents can be equally as dangerous, more details to come after the team has returned to civilization.

In July 2015, alpinists Andy Houseman and Jon Griffith travelled to the Charakusa Valley and made the first ascent of Link Sar West. See an image with more information as to where the peaks are located here.

“It’s a mixed face of ice, snow, and rock,” Griffith explained. “It’s roped climbing from the bottom to the top. Proper climbing. You’re hacking ledges to bivvy out of north-facing ice. You sleep in a harness.”

Link Sar West

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