Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first ascent of The Holy Grail in Scotland, a bold new run-out winter route.
The climb is on Slime Wall on Buachaille and gets the burly grade of IX/10. Planetmountain.com reports that Robertson “had previously climbed almost all routes on the Slime Wall, both summer and winter, and on 11 January he and Boswell climbed the first two pitches of Ravens Gully before exploring a new direct line straight up the face and through the obvious jutting roof.”
Guy Robertson pulling through the roof of the Great Cave on Slime Wall on the Buachaille, during the first ascent of our new route “The Holy Grail” IX/10. We did the route last Thursday, and I can safely say, it’s up there with some of the best pitches of climbing I’ve ever done. Hit the link in my bio ⬆️ for more info and pics. . . . . . . . . . . #hard #roof #winter #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #scotwinter #wearerab #suuntoclimb #buachaille #climbing #mountains #mixedclimbing #funtimes #goodfriends #linkinbio . . . . . . @suunto @deuter @lekiuk @grivel @scarpa_uk @rab.equipment @edelweissropes_usa @scarpa_climb @redbulluk
The Holy Grail was climbed in six pitches and both climbers said it was some of the best climbing they’d done.
Robertson has a full report on UKClimbing.com, which you can read here. Here is some of what he said, “Cutting loose again on the one axe, foot free above the abyss, my options were fast running out. Then, in a strange moment of automation, my weight fell away right and the palm of my right hand fell onto a flat hold out on the very lip of the crack. Simultaneously, both legs swung high up left to match the left tool.
“With one gargantuan horizontal press the unthinkable happened – I elongated tenuously up higher into the slot. Then again…udging, and again…squirming. I couldn’t move, stuck fast, feet kicking into space. Greg was laughing out loud below, bastard. He’ll never fit in here I chuckled to myself, in return.
“But somehow, miraculously, my gasping burrowing continued, and soon the flat handhold became a knee press, then eventually it accepted a foot. The Guillotine had fallen, and we had dodged its fatal blow.”
Click on the clip to play.
Scotland delivers once again. This time at Slime Wall on the Buachaille. This was my maiden voyage up the wall, and it didn’t disappoint. We did a direct winter line straight up the face and through the great roof. What a day! Here’s a vid of the roof above us and Guy seconding up to the belay at the end of the 4th pitch. . . . . . #scotwinter #wearerab #suuntoclimb #mountains #buachaille #glencoe #view #climbing_videos_of_instagram #hard #roof #winter #funtimes #goodweather . . . . . . . . @rab.equipment @scarpa_uk @grivel @lekiuk @deuter @suunto