Huge New Route in Alaska by Ace Team
Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau are at it again on the Ruth Gorge with Aim for the Bushes
Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau have established a route up the east face of Mount Dickey on Alaska’s Ruth Glacier. The bold new route is called Aim for the Bushes, a reference to a scene in the Hollywood movie The Other Guys.
Cornell, Marvell and Rousseau spent three days on the bold 1,600-metre AI6 M6X. It climbs next to Snowpatrol, which was first climbed in 2004 by Andy Sharpe and Sam Chinnery at VI WI5+. They descended from the summit to base camp in under three hours.
“We found a lot of adventure on our three day push up the face,” Rousseau wrote. “The route kept us engaged from first pitch to last, We had a ton of uncertainty on this thing. At least a dozen times on the route we looked up and didn’t know if we would find a passage through the next rope length. Fortunately we managed to scrape our way through and had some good (albeit cold) times along the way.”
In 2016, Rousseau and Marvell made the first ascent of Ruth Gorge Grinder at AI6+ M7 up the east face of Dickey. Last year, Cornell and Marvell climbed a new 1,100-metre route up the west face of Pyramid Peak in Alaska called Techno Terror AI6 M7+ A0. Also last year, Cornell, Marvell and Rousseau climbed The Slovak Direct VI 5.9X M6 WI6 in under 24 hours.
