Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab.
Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles Lacroix climbed a 400-metre slab in the Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie area in Charlevoix, north of Quebec City, on Mount Felix Antoine Savard.
Their new eight-pitch 5.3 is called La Felix Antoine and climbs a bullet-hard friction slab similar to the Adirondacks’ Trap Dike.
Mount Félix-Antoine-Savard is a 950-metre mountain that was first explored for ice climbing over 40 years ago. In 1976, Claude Bérubé and his partner climbed Le Triolet, the first WI5 ice climb in Québec.
Another famous peak in the valley is Mont De L’Equerre, which is known for the famous ice route La Pomme D’Or and the 500-metre rock climb called Redcoats Resurrection.
La Felix Antoine can be seen from the Acropole des Draveurs hike across the valley and is one of the most obvious features in the area. The approach has a 400-metre gain.
The route is mostly fourth- and fifth-class and was simul-climbed on the first ascent. This route is for the adventure climber looking to gain elevation quickly. There is little in the way of technical climbing.
From the top, you can bushwhack to the summit of the rarely visited summit.