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Huge New Slab Route in Quebec is Eight Pitches!

Quebec has a number of mountains that rise over 1,000 metres from valley bottom. There is lots of potential for new long rock routes. The most recent new route is not technically difficult, but offers a long day on an aesthetic slab.

Mount Félix-Antoine-Savard.  Photo Source
Mount Félix-Antoine-Savard. The new  route climbs the long slab above the obvious rock scar. Photo Source

Hugo Drouin, Claude Gélinas and Charles Lacroix climbed a 400-metre slab in the Hautes Gorges de la Rivière Malbaie area in Charlevoix, north of Quebec City, on Mount Felix Antoine Savard.

Their new eight-pitch 5.3 is called La Felix Antoine and climbs a bullet-hard friction slab similar to the Adirondacks’ Trap Dike.

mountfelix1
La Felix Antoine climbs the long slab. The other walls in the area are relatively unexplored. Photo Source

Mount Félix-Antoine-Savard is a 950-metre mountain that was first explored for ice climbing over 40 years ago. In 1976, Claude Bérubé and his partner climbed Le Triolet, the first WI5 ice climb in Québec.

Another famous peak in the valley is Mont De L’Equerre, which is known for the famous ice route La Pomme D’Or and the 500-metre rock climb called Redcoats Resurrection.

La Felix Antoine can be seen from the Acropole des Draveurs hike across the valley and is one of the most obvious features in the area. The approach has a 400-metre gain.

The route is mostly fourth- and fifth-class and was simul-climbed on the first ascent. This route is for the adventure climber looking to gain elevation quickly. There is little in the way of technical climbing.

From the top, you can bushwhack to the summit of the rarely visited summit.

Looking down the first few pitches of La Felix Antoine. Photo Hugo Drouin
Looking down the first few pitches of La Felix Antoine. Photo Hugo Drouin