“I Have Never Encountered Such a Route” – New Steep M8 in Quebec
The steep two-pitch climb in eastern Quebec is one of several new winter lines in Canada this month
A steep new mixed climb was just established in eastern Quebec was established at an area discovered only a few years ago near Saint-Valerien close to the Rimouski River.
Last week, Jean-François Girard and Matteo Arnaldi made the first ascent of In Utero, a steep two-pitch M8 that follows an obvious feature up solid rock. “This new sector is about six kilometres from the central road in Saint-Valerien,” said Girard. “It was discovered four years ago by Simon Nadeau, Francois Genin and Jean Francois Gauthier, who climbed a new WI4.”
In 2019, Girard made his first visit with Nadeau with the intention of fixing anchors on what would become In Utero. However, they didn’t get a change to free the line.
“I went back with Matteo last week to finish equipping and to send the route,” said Girard. In Utero starts up lower angle terrain to an ice slab that leads to the huge overhang above. “It’s a very technical inverted staircase (overhanging up to five metres), which leads to a tight squeeze and the first anchor. The first 33-metre pitch clocks in at an impressive M8. The second pitch follows two fairly thin and technical sections at M5+ for 27 metres.
“In my experience I have never encountered such a route,” said Girard. “The unique route is must-climb for mixed climbing enthusiasts, much in the way that Lennox Hill at Lac à l’écluse is.” For more info on Lennox Hill, visit page 14 of this online guidebook to Parc des Grands Jardins. “Thanks to Simon Nadeau and Matteo Arnaldi, and Camp USA for their support,” added Girard.
Last week, we reported about another old mixed project in Quebec that got a first ascent. Olympique Métal goes at M10 WI5, read more about it here.
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