Interview With Comp Climber Alyssa Weber

Alyssa Weber is a Calgary-based competition climber who has won every Tour de Bloc she has entered this year.

In 2008, Weber joined the junior team at the Calgary Climbing Centre after discovering the sport at friends’ climbing gym birthday parties. Over the past few years, she has become one of Canada’s leading comp climbers.

She has climbed V10 and 5.12+ outdoors, but this fall has been focusing on indoor comp climbing. Gripped caught up with Weber after her third Tour de Bloc win of the season.

How old were you when you started competing?

I went to a couple local competitions for fun the first year I started climbing, but I didn’t start competing seriously until I was 15 when I attended my first Youth Nationals in Quebec City.

How long have you been climbing outdoors?

I’m still pretty new to climbing outdoors, but I would definitely like to do it more. I have sport climbed a little bit in the Bow Valley, but mostly just for fun. When I went to Youth Worlds in Singapore, I made a side trip to Thailand and climbed there a little bit. This past summer I went on my first climbing trip and spent a month bouldering in Squamish. It was an amazing experience and I definitely want to go back.

What is your most memorable comp?

My most memorable competition would be my last Youth Worlds in Noumea, New Caledonia (an island near Australia) in 2014. It was my best worlds placing where I made semi-finals for my second time and finished 10th. Its always fun traveling with team Canada and I would have never gotten a chance to go to New Caledonia if it weren’t for climbing.

What is your goal when you enter a comp?

I love competing because it is so much fun. You get to climb with your friends and try new problems. My goal is to just have fun and come out feeling like I climbed my best.

What was your proudest victory?

My proudest victory was when I won Youth Nationals in Montreal in 2014. With it being my last Youth Nationals, I just wanted to have fun and climb my best. I didn’t expect to win, but it was a great way to finish off my youth career.

How often do you train and do you have a coach?

I train four days a week for three hours each session. I’m not part of a climbing team this year so I’ve just been training with friends. We make our own training plan, and coach and support each other. It seems to be working really well so far.

Did you change anything in your training from last year to this year?

Since I started climbing I’ve always been part of a team, whether it was the junior team or the adult team. This year, I decided not to join a team and train with my friends. We’ve been able to make our own workouts and schedule training times that best fit our busy lives.

Is it difficult balancing your schedule to fit in climbing?

Climbing is such a big part of my life that I will always be able to find a way to fit it into my schedule. Being in university, my schedule is different depending on what day it is, so I’ve been able to fit in training when I don’t have classes. I can be flexible with my training schedule because I’m not on a team that had specific training times.

You’ve won three Tour de Blocs this year. Did you see that coming and how does it feel?

I definitely did not see it coming, but it feels great! With a change in my training and not having a coach it’s nice to know I’m doing something right.

At a comp in Calgary, you ripped a hold off the wall. Explain what that was like.

It took me a while to realize what I had done. I meant to just dyno to the upper hold, but I was slipping so I doubled-down to the lower hold and the next thing I knew I was sitting on the mat.

They sent me back to ISO while they fixed the hold and I couldn’t stop laughing. It was very funny for everyone. To add on to the humour, during my next attempt on the same problem I spun a foothold and called another technical. It was such a fun competition that I definitely won’t forget.

What do you eat before a comp?

I always eat oatmeal and some sort of fruit in the morning before a competition. If there are finals in the evening, I’ll try and eat a substantial lunch and have just a snack before finals.

Do you have a good luck charm?

I’m not much for superstitions, but I always paint my nails purple before competing. Purple is my favourite colour and it’s something fun to do.

What are some of your climbing plans for 2016 for outdoor and comps?

My plan is to attend as many competitions as I can this year including both bouldering and lead nationals. It would also be great to get the opportunity to compete at the Toronto and Vail Bouldering World Cups again.

As for outdoors, the only thing I have planned is going to Bishop over the Christmas break. I definitely want to do some more climbing outdoors this summer.

– Be sure to follow Weber on her climbs at Sendage.com, here.