It’s Ice Climbing Season in Western Canada
Classics and remote test-piece routes are getting attention as the forecast calls for more ice-forming temps
Photo by: Tim Banfield
It’s that time of year again when many climbers are dusting off the ice climbing gear for another long winter in the Canadian Rockies. Ice climbers are already ascending frozen waterfalls on north-facing walls and in remote valleys thanks to an October cold snap.
Some of the routes that have been climbed so far include those at Ranger Creek, Storm Creek Headwall, and the Junkyards near Canmore. Conditions are updated daily by local climbers on the Rockies Ice and Mixed page here. Ice has started to form on other popular lines like The Professor Falls, Kid Falls, King Creek, along the David Thompson Highway and in Johnson Canyon. A reminder about Johnson Canyon is that while ice climbing is allowed, no tools are allowed to touch the rock, so no drytooling or mixed climbing.
Farther west toward the coast, climbers reported that ice in Marble Canyon and along the Duffy Lake Road was starting to form, including routes like Rambles and Icy BC. Ice in this area usually doesn’t form until later in the season, so this is a sign that it could be a great year for ice climbing here. Check ice conditions in this area at the SWBC ice climbing page here.
If you’re new to ice climbing then check out Ice Climbing for Beginners: Don’t Ever Fall and Ice Climbers Should Carry Beacons in Avalanche Areas. And if you’re looking for ice climbing motivation, check out the below Instagram account. We’ll continue to have ice climbing updates throughout the season.
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