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Jakob Schubert Sends Two Hot 5.15s, Giving Downgrades

King Capella and La Capella have been seeing a lot of attempts this year thanks to Will Bosi, who made the FA of the former at a suggested 5.15c

Photo by: (of) Will Bosi on King Capella by Bands of Birds

Jakob Schubert has made the third ascent of King Capella and made a repeat of La Capella, both at Siurana in Catalonia, Spain. The first ascent of King Capella was earlier this year by British 22-year-old climber Will Bosi.

Alexander Megos made the second ascent of King Capella recently and didn’t grade it. Bosi had given it 5.15c, which would make him one of only a few climbers to tick the grade. Schuberta has given King Capella 5.15b, and La Capella (which was 5.15b) a solid 5.15a.

Megos announced his repeat on Instagram, but didn’t include a personal grade, only noting that he “used slightly different beta than Will taking a very wide pinch, which felt a little easier to me than what Will did. He couldn’t do the move the way I did it though, so I guess it’s personal preference.” Watch a video of Megos on King Capella below.

Bosi climbed La Capella 5.15b in the same sector in early 2020 which made him the first Brit to climb the grade abroad, before working on King Capella. Bosi said, “King Capella has the same style of the area with a series of boulder problems stacked on top of one another however this route was another level for me. For comparison, it took me three sessions to complete La Capella, whereas it took me three sessions to unlock the first sequence on King Capella.”

King Capella starts left of La Capella at the edge of the scooped wall into a set of bouldery sequences before the pressure finally relents. It took Bosi 10 sessions to make the first ascent, and took Megos nine days to repeat. It took Schubert four days to send King Capella. Last year, Megos made the first ascent of Bibliographie after 60 days and graded it 5.15d; Stefanos Ghisolfi repeated it and gave it 5.15c – which Megos agreed with.

 

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Will Bosi on King Capella

Alex Megos on King Capella

Daniel Woods on La Capella

Lead photo: (of) Will Bosi on King Capella by Bands of Birds