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Jamie Finlayson is Shaving With a Knife

Jamie Finlayson has repeated many of the West Coast's hardest routes and contributes with Shaving with a Knife

I bolted Shaving with a Knife last year. The 25-metre route tops out on the Quercus Cliff at Murrin Park in Squamish. Local Colin Moorhead found the cliff and did the first couple of routes.

Sonnie Trotter had climbed a route on the wall called C is for Safe, 5.11d, which the lower section of Shaving climbs to at 5.13a. I climbed that part last year, but the rains prevented me from topping out.

This spring I set my sights on other routes such as The Battle of Evermore, 5.14a, that Trotter bolted last year and I climbed for the third ascent. Then I went to work on Captain America, 5.14b, on the Big Show at Chek.

With these awesome routes behind me and the cooler fall temperatures approaching, I was ready to start working on the desperately thin Shaving with a Knife extension. It took me a total of 12 days (six last year and six this year,) including my time on the lower section last year to finally send the route. I had to change my beta in the upper-section after breaking a critical crystal. The new beta was more fun anyways. It involves me getting almost horizontal to reach a crimp out right, which is unique for a less than vertical route.

The route has five different boulder problems which are stacked, with rests in between on small sharp holds. A big challenge for me was that I kept slicing my left index finger tip. When I sent I had to have that finger taped which was not ideal, but it worked out anyways. I graded it 5.13c.

I am excited with the first ascent and was lucky to get it done before the fall rains. It started to rain as I was leaving the parking lot. I Would like to thank Tim Emmett for his support and awesome belays and my very supportive and understanding wife!

Jamie Finlayson on Shaving With a Knife Photo Chris Christie
Jamie Finlayson on Shaving With a Knife, 5.13c Photo Chris Christie

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