Jana Švecová Makes V13 First Ascent
The V15 climber establishes a new ultra crimpy line in the Czech Republic
On Saturday, Czech climber Jana Švecová made the first ascent of Dune V13 (8B) near her home in Stařechovícký Lom. Starting from seated, the eight-move problem works its way up a 30-degree overhanging face through a series of bad holds and tiny crimps. Dune is actually a sit-start variation of Crimp Busters, a V10 Švecová established in early November. The sit start adds five hard moves into the three-move Crimp Busters.
“Spent five sessions on this epic boulder,” said Švecová about Dune on Instagram. “What is even more epic for me is the fact that I was able to send it in December with 0 degrees and 10 cm of snow.”
Švecová has had an impressive 2023. In June, she made the first ascent of Nova, a variation to Adam Ondra’s Terranova V16. Švecová originally graded the problem V14 but Will Bosi upgraded it to V15 after making the first repeat last month. With this upgrade, Švecová joins a small group of women who have climbed V15 including Ashima Shiraishi, Kaddi Lehmann, Mishka Ishi, Katie Lamb, and Brooke Raboutou.
Dune is not Švecová’s first V13 this year. In January, she made the first ascent of Lion King V13 in the United Arab Emirates, and then in August, she repeated Svini Mor V13 in the Czech Republic’s famous Moravian Karst. You can watch Švecová’s send of Dune V13 in her video below.
Jana Švecová Sends Dune V13
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