Janja Garnbret Climbs Three V13s in a Session
The feat is no big deal for Garnbret who has her sights on bigger projects in Switzerland
What do you do when you have bad skin while on a climbing trip? Take a rest day? Not for Janja Garnbret: “Bad skin means playing on some easier classics.” And what does “easier classics” mean for the comp climbing GOAT? For Garnbret, it means three V13s and two and V11s in a single season.
Yesterday, Garnbret ticked Vecchio Leone V13 (8B), Amber V13, Versace V13, Fake Pamplemousse V11, and Frogger V11 in Ticino, Switzerland. This is Garnbret’s second sendy day of the trip. On her first day of the visit, she topped Dreamtime V15, The Dagger V13, and La Proue V13
Dreamtime was the world’s first V15, established by Fred Nicole in 2000. Subsequent ascensionists, including Dave Graham, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra, downgraded the historic problem to V14. But in 2009, a crux hold broke, resulting in an upgrade of the problem to V15. Many top climbers have climbed Dreamtime post-break, including Paul Robinson, Simon Lorenzi, Giuliano Cameroni, Yannick Flohé, Pietro Vidi, and Matty Hong, among others. In 2024, Michaela Kiersch made the first female ascent.
Dreamtime is Garnbret’s second of the grade. In May last year, she sent her first V15, Bügeleisen Sit in Maltatal, Austria. She wasn’t happy with the footage of the ascent so she ended up climbing the problem twice that day. With Bügeleisen Sit, Garnbret joined a small group of women who had climbed V15.
