Janja Garnbret Makes Quick Work of New Base Line V14
On a short trip to Magic Wood, she also flashed two V11/12 problems
Janja Garnbret, widely regarded as the best competitive climber of all time, had another great year on the comp scene. Although an injury prevented her competing at the World Cup events early in the season, she came back looking stronger than ever once she joined the circuit. She won a gold and silver in the Boulder World Cup and three golds in the Lead World Cup. At the World Championships, she won gold in Boulder, silver in Lead, and gold in the new Combined Olympic format, earning her a ticket to the Paris 2024 Olympics.
On a recent quick trip to Magic Wood, Switzerland during her comp climbing off-season, Garnbret made easy work of New Base Line V14 (8B+), sending the problem on her second attempt of her second day of effort. During her short trip, she also flashed Jack’s Broken Heart V11/12 and Left Hand of Darkness V11/12, and climbed a bunch of other double-digit problems.
New Base Line V14 is an ultra-classic. Bernd Zangerl made the first ascent of the problem way back in 2002, originally grading the line V15. With subsequent ascents, the grade settled at V14. Many of climbing’s best have climbed the problem including Fred Nicole, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, Shauna Coxsey, Giuliano Cameroni, and Katie Lamb, among others.
“Came here with no expectations,” said Garnbret about her Magic Wood trip on Instagram. “My goal of the trip was to get back to climbing after a rest and climb as many different boulders as I can. Of course I couldn’t resist not trying this amazing line [New Base Line]. Checked out the moves on my first session, felt really solid and already close to sending. On the send day I felt so tired and I doubted if I should even try it, still walked up to the boulder and surprised myself with a send on my 2nd try of the day. Soo psyched how quickly it went down!!”
Here’s Garnbret’s full Magic Wood trip ticklist:
- New Base Line V14 (8B+)
- Jack’s Broken Heart V11/12 (flash)
- Left Hand of Darkness V11/12 (flash)
- Massive Attack V12
- Sofasurfer V11/12
- Foxy Lady V11
- Muttertag V11
- Octopussy V11
- Right Hand of Darkness V10/11
- Unendliche Geschichte V10/11
New Base Line V14 (8B+)
Massive Attack V12 (8A+)
Foxy Lady V11 (8A)
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