Janja Garnbret Tops a V14 in Italy
After a flash of Pure Dreaming 5.14+ last week, Garnbret continues to focus on rock with her quick ascent of Rude V14
Janja Garnbret just sent Rude V14 (8B+) in Val Daone, Italy. Rude was first ascended by Valdo Chilese in 2023 and has seen repeats from some of the world’s best climbers, including Stefano Ghisolfi last month. The problem ascends a steep roof with tiny crimps and demands technical toe and heel hooks to a mantle top-out. Rude didn’t seem to take much effort from the two-time Olympic gold medallist.
“Quick work of Rude [V14],” she said on Instagram. “Beautiful day climbing outside in Val Daone.” Rude is not Garnbret’s first V14. She’s sent several in the past including Hide and Sick, New Base Line, and Bügeleisen. In May last year, she sent her first V15, Bügeleisen Sit in Maltatal, Austria.
Just last week, Garnbret flashed the sport route Pure Dreaming 5.14+ in Arco, Italy. This is one of the hardest flashes ever. It was originally graded 5.14d (9a), but was given 5.14c (8c+) with kneepads and different beta. But Garnbret didn’t use kneepads, a hold recently broke, and it sounds like she skipped a rest some climbers use on an adjacent route Athena.
While she didn’t compete often during this year’s comp circuit, when she did, she made it count. She won gold at every event she participated in this year, including the Lead and Boulder World Cups in Innsbruck, the Lead World Cup in Koper, and the Lead and Boulder World Championships in Seoul.
