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Updated: Japanese Climber Keita Kurakami Frees The Nose

Japanese climber Keita Kurakami has become the fifth climber to free-climb The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.

UPDATE: Kurakami has said on Instagram that his ascent shouldn’t be considered the fifth free ascent of the Nose. Read below.

My trip has done. In this time, I had so many good experiences, meeting new friends, trying some fantastic routes and more. Especially, the most memorable thing was The Nose free trying. So I free-climbed all pitches on The Nose. However I have to say that it wasn’t completely 5th ascent. Because I left from the wall to take a rest in the top of the wall, so my ascent is not completely contentious push. It’s a easier style than previous ascent and it is not able to be official record I think. If someone says my ascent can be accepted free ascent, even so, if I have doubts myself, I can’t agree it. My name should be deleted from the record of The Nose free ascent. But I don’t give up this challenge, I will be back again there to finish it with completely or harder climbing style in a push from ground . See you again next year!! (next is 3rd trip for the route!) 1ヶ月のヨセミテツアーが終わりました。 今回は昨年敗退していたGreat RoofやChanging Cornersの完登を経てThe Noseの全ピッチオールフリーでのクライミングを果たすことができ、昨年と比べて大きな成長を感じることが出来ました。 しかし、自分が納得出来る形でのクライミングであったかというとそうではありません。 The Noseでのクライミングは未だ各ピッチのレッドポイントという不完全な形(チェンジングコーナーのレッドポイント時に一度地上に降りている)でした。 やはりクライミングはどんなに大きな壁でも一度も地上に降りることなく地上から頂上まで連続的に登ってこそ完登と呼べるもの。 また1年後、より厳しく納得できるスタイルでThe Noseを完登出来るよう鍛錬してヨセミテに戻って来ようと思います。

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Kurakami had wrote on Instagram earlier this month after his “free” ascent: “Wooooow! My mission has done! I grabbed the fifth free ascent of The Nose 5.14a.

“I climbed up four times from ground from last year. But I found some difficulties every time. Of course, the crux pitches is so hard. Needless to say this route is known the most famous big wall route in the world.

“Therefore, there is some difficulties to climb it as free. But I realized it that if really want to climb it, can be sure to find a solution. So it’s just effort and patience. That’s the most important things for this time on this route.”

The first free ascent was by Lynn Hill in 1993. She returned in 1994 and freed the 30-pitch 5.14 is less than 24 hours. In 1998, Scott Burke freed the entire route, but was forced to toprope the Great Roof due to conditions.

There is some another stories at Great Roof. The one which was especially impressive in that what we met legendary climber Hans Florine and his friend Charlie at there. They cheered us up and took some photo!! Very thanks for it!!! Photo: Charlie 今回も壁の中では様々なストーリー(面白話し)が生まれました。中でも際立って印象的だったのはグレートルーフを完登した当日、そのビレイ点で世界でThe Noseを最もよく知るであろうハンス•フローリンさんにお会いしたこと。その時は友人のチャーリーの接待?クライミングでワンデイクライミングしていたとのことでしたがチャーリーさんが何枚か写真を撮ってくれました。 #lostarrow #blackdiamond #liveclimbrepeat #scarpa @trailbutter @trailbutter.jp

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Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden freed the route in 2005, switching leads. Then Caldwell sent The Nose and Freerider 5.13 in one day.

In 2014, Jorg Verhoeven became the first non-American to climb the route free. After his climb, he said, “Yeah! I free-climbed the Nose!

“In three days, I managed to grab the fourth ascent of this iconic route. I sent the Great Roof first burn on day two and Changing Corners after two falls the next morning. So incredibly glad I pulled it through. A lot of respect to Lynn Hill for free-climbing this route 20 years ago. Feels like a big chapter has come to an end.”

Earlier this year, Kurakami made the first ascent of the hard-to-protect 5.13d/14aR trad route in Yukawa, Japan, called The Votive Light.

In 2016, he established Senjitsu no Ruri, a seven-pitch 5.14aR/X, as the most difficult multipitch trad route in Japan.

Yeeess!!! We freeclimbed Great Roof 5.13d on The Nose! We spent 7days on the big stone to free climb it from the ground. Actually I disappointed to climb it at first day cause of I cut my finger in my first trying. Finally I climbed it without using the little finger. I can’t use well it yet..,But we will go bock to finish our project. Next is the corner!!! Yosemiteでトライ中のThe Noseの核心ピッチの一つであるGreat Roofをフリーで登りました。 10/28よりゴーアップし、壁の中に1週間滞在。11/02にまず倉上が完登し、昨日パートナーの佐藤さんが完登しました。シビアな足使いと指の入りきらない細いアンダークラックで耐える厳しいピッチでした。実はトライ初日に小指を深くえぐってしまったのですが、結局その指を使わず登り切ることが出来ました。 今は雨降りを避けるため一旦下降してベースのCAMP4にいます。すっかり季節が変わった渓谷で残る核心ピッチのChanging Cornerに備えます。 #yosemite #bigwall #thenose #climbing #lostarrow #blackdiamond #scarpa @trailbutter @trailbutter.jp

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