Ashlar Ridge near the town of Jasper in Alberta has more good rock than many people realize and a few Edmonton climbers are starting to explore it.
Thanks to the hard work of some local climbers and the Edmonton Bolt Fund, that good rock is being turned into quality lines. The eight-pitch route is fully bolted and goes at 5.10a, making the least difficult of all sport routes up the limestone wall that reaches 300 metres in height.
The new 230-metre line is called Roger’s Lunch Buffet and is named after a grizzly bear that lives in in the area. New router Konstantin Stoletov said, “Frequent encounters with him were an unforgettable part of climbing on Ashlar.
“The climb provides variety of climbing from juggy faces to overhangs finishing on the stunning ramp headwall pitch.” The other climbers on the first ascent were Thomas McElroy and Nitin Chidambaram.
Establishing routes is expensive when you figure one hanger and bolt can cost up to $5. Visit here to donate to the Edmonton bolt fund.
Approach: Follow a good trail from Ashlar parking lot. After reaching the final “hump” below the ridge traverse left under the wall to the scree. Follow faint switchbacks for 100 metres untill just above start of the route (see inset). Traverse the scree back to the wall/start.
Pitch One: Jackie`s pitch: Start on a little ledge five metres right of the shallow left-leaning crack that splits the face. Climb up to fourth bolt then step to your right and continue on a good holds to the belay station on a ledge. (5.10a 30m 11 bolts)
Pitch Two: Start on an easy ground and than go on a good face full of juggy holds to another ledge. (5.9 35m 14 bolts)
Pitch Three: Climb a short face than go past a few sandy ledges reaching a comfortable ledge belay under a cool looking arch/overhang. (5.6 30m 9 bolts)
Pitch Four: Layback the crack under overhang than step over to your right reaching the delicate flake. Belay is on a good stance. (5.9 17m 7 bolts)
Pitch Five: Climb into a corner with good feet. Sustained 5.9 moves here and there lead you to a belay on Dustin`s ledge. (5.9 35m 11 bolts)
Pitch Six: Climb a few meters on fun limestone before traversing up with some tricky moves above the grassy ramp. Belay is on the good stance. (5.9 30m 10 bolts)
Pitch Seven: This is the best pitch. Head up and right then left after bolt three. Continue on a a fun ramp. Belay on a big ledge. (5.10a 38m 11 bolts)
Pitch Eight: A short pitch that can be linked with a pitch seven. Climb up and right on the final slab. Belay on a big grassy ledge with bolts on the wall in front of you. (5.3 15m 3 bolts)