Jean-Pierre Ouellet made the first ascent of Necronomicon 5.13d/14a beneath the White Rim Trail in Canyonlands back in 2011 and it hadn’t been repeated until now. British climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker have made the first repeats of the 30-metre thin-hand roof crack. The two “wide boyz” stars made the first ascent of Century Crack 5.14 in the same area a decade ago.
First discovered and attempted by Rob Pizem, Necronomicon has shut down a number of strong climbers. Quellet needed 12 attempts spread out over two weeks before sending the route while placing gear on lead.
“Another pleasure and total classic in the roof crack genre, which we both had to deploy some serious paddle hands and ring lock technique for,” said Randall. “It was also really cool to do someone else’s route for once and sometimes we can get a bit obsessed with only doing FAs down there. We’re now onto project number two for some more horizontal struggle barging and skin loss.”
Pleased me and Randall managed to get the first repeats of this one, Necronomicon (a @jpouellet 'tin hands' special). . Definitely a little personal achievement for me this one. The crux is notoriously thin for the hands, tight reds and greens in a roof…and I have notoriously fat hands. . It's all swings and roundabouts though, when the reds and greens feel total shocker, those very tight greens do provide some finger jams 😉 . There's never really an excuse for anyone really, there's always a technique on offer . 📸@tompaulrandall . @patagonia_climb @wildcountry_official @fiveten_official @sterlingrope @alpkit @beta_climbing @hard.bar #climbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #klettern #escalade #america #utah #tinhands #training