Jornet Summits Everest Again Sans O2

Kilian Jornet has reached the summit of Everest for his second time on May 27 after reaching it on May 22. He did not use supplementary oxygen on either ascent.

On his first climb, he set out from base camp and reached the summit 26 hours later. On his second, he reached it after 17 hours from advanced base camp.

[EXPEDITION UPDATE] Kilian Jornet summited Mount Everest twice in a week without using supplemental oxygen. For this ascent, Kilian Jornet left on May 27th from Advanced Base Camp (6.500m) and it took him 17 hours to the summit in a very windy day. From there, he returned to the Advanced Base Camp where he is resting with Seb Montaz. More info soon. Picture: Kilian back at the ABC _______________________________________________________ Kilian Jornet repite cima en el Everest por segunda vez en una semana sin usar oxígeno artificial. Para este ascenso, Kilian Jornet salió el 27 de Mayo del Campo Base Avanzado (6.500m) e hizo cumbre en 17 horas en un día con mucho viento. Desde allí, volvió al Campo Base Avanzado donde está descansando con. Más información pronto. Foto: Kilian de vuelta al Advanced Base Camp _______________________________________________________ Kilian Jornet repeteix cim a l'Everest per segona vegada en una setmana sense oxigen artificial. Per a aquest ascens, Kilian Jornet va sortir el 27 de Maig del Camp Base Avançat (6.500m) i va fer cim en 17 hores en un dia amb molt de vent. Des d'allà, va tornar al Camp Base Avançat on està descansant amb Seb Momtaz. Més informació aviat. #OurEverest Foto: Kilian de tornada a l'Advanced Base Camp

A post shared by Kilian Jornet (@kilianjornet) on May 27, 2017 at 8:55pm PDT

Conditions were sub-optimal for his second ascent and the 29-year-old returned to advanced base camp after 28 hours.

“I’m so happy to have made the summit again,” said Jornet. “Today I felt good although it was really windy so it was hard to move fast. I think summiting Everest twice in one week without oxygen opens up a new realm of possibilities in alpinism and I’m really happy to have done it.”

In 1996, Hans Kammerlander from South Tyrol reached the summit in 16 hours and 45 minutes from advanced base camp. Kammerlander made the first ski descent of the mountain on the same climb.

In 2007, Pemba Dorje Sherpa reached the summit twice in a week up the north face without bottled oxygen.

Reinhold Messner and Peter Habler were the first climbers to reach the summit of Everest in 1978 without bottled O2. By 2016, there were over 160 ascents without supplemental oxygen. In 2017, there will be at least a dozen climbers to do it.

Cory Richards reached the summit this past weekend with Adrian Ballinger, Ballinger without bottled oxygen. This is Richards’s second time on the summit in as many years. In 2016 he reached the top, but Ballinger had to turn around.

@adrianballinger 27 yrs, two months, four days, and 40 hours of movement into his realized dream of touching the apex of Terra Firma without the use of supplemental oxygen. Last year, he turned around several hundred meters shy of the summit. Yesterday, we stood on top together, fulfilling our two year project. I've never witnessed something so moving as his continued effort to break his own physical and psychological barriers. It was beautiful. I was humbled to stand in his shadow…thanks so much Adrian for showing me how far we can all take it. You are an inspiration forever. #everestnofilter @eddiebauer @khumbuclimbingcenter @stravarun @hiballenergy

A post shared by Cory Richards (@coryrichards) on May 28, 2017 at 8:48am PDT

Ralf Dujmovits was also attempting from the north, solo without bottled oxygen but had to turn around due to conditions. He first reached the summit in 1992 with bottled oxygen.

There have been a number of deaths around the world’s highest mountain this spring, including that of the great alpinist Ueli Steck who fell from Nuptse over a month ago.

There have also been a number of reports of climbers dying, only to arrive to base camp hours later. One of the few cons of having high-speed internet in the death zone will be rushed reports, but there are far more pros.

Since in 1992 I could climb Everest with supplemental oxygen – after a total of three nights waiting at the S-Col without Os – I tried another seven times without. Two days ago on my eighth attempt I had to return at 8,580 m on the Tibetan N-side – unexpected strong wind and snowfall didn't fit my risk acceptance. Cold feet and hands made me (and the accompanying Sherpa Lama Namggyal) return to CIII. It took me the whole descent to Chinese basecamp to overcome my disappointment. When yesterday evening I arrived here after 3500 altitude meters and 30 km's I almost couldn't move anymore of tiredness. Anyway – I'm happy to have all my toes and fingers. In the picture you see Camp III at 8,300 m on the Tibetan N-side of Mt. Everest. Tons of broken tents and uneven tent spaces is the normal case. It is one of the most inhospitable places for humans on earth. 99% of the climbers and Sherpas are staying there on oxygen- only spending half a day and half a night without oxygen is already a big, big effort. . . . . #️⃣: #nepal8thwonder #jai_nepal @insta.nepal @lowa.sportschuhe #photooftheday #expeditions @awesome_nepal #nepal @mounteverestofficial #thenepalnow #mountains #himalaya #8000er #14×8000 #ochomilismo #itsgreatoutthere #hiking #mountaineering #himalayas #lovelowa @komperdell_page #DKTM #highaltitudeclimbing #expedition #visitnepal #himalaya #instanepal #tibet @travelling.nepal #mounteverest #mounteverestofficial #everest #everesttrek #discovernepal #everestnationalpark @luckydavewatson

A post shared by Ralf Dujmovits (@ralfdujmovits) on May 29, 2017 at 1:55am PDT