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Keita Kurakami Sends New 5.14d/15a in Japan

Two years ago, he made the first rope-solo-free ascent of The Nose 5.14a

Top Japanese climber Keita Kurakami has sent his three-year project and called it The V 5.14d/15a. While Kurakami has never sent a 5.15a, he said that his attempts of them in the past combined with his 5.14+ climbs give him confidence of his suggested grade.

In his Instagram post about his send, he said talked about now focusing on the the hard times ahead in dealing with coronavirus. In 2018, he rope-solo-freed The Nose 5.14a after first attempting it in 2017.

In 2019, he made a rope-solo ascent of Mare, a 5.14c on Mount Futago in Japan. It was likely the most difficult rope-solo ever of a single pitch sport climb.

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I've done my 3 years term project yesterday.
Finally, I did FA'ed it and I gave the name “The V” (5.14d/15a). – 昨日、長らくトライしていた秩父のローカルエリアにあるプロジェクトを完成させることができました。
ルート名は”The V” (5.14d/15a). – Various negative feelings were mixed and confused when I was trying it.
Fear, trouble, tangle, lapse of confidence, escape mind and sometimes angry.
Actually, I fell off same move for 5 days more. (Solution was to take a left hand rest on 6mm crimp!!)
So, it was the hardest (toughest) time to try on the project for my climbing carrier. – トライ中は恐怖、苦しみ、自信喪失、逃避願望、そして怒りといった負の感情が入り乱れました。
ルートの内容だけでなく、トライのプロセス全て含めて自己最難のルートとなり、また学びの多いクライミングでした。 – But finally, thanks mind was occured and I realized I’m really happy man…
And, on this way I realized this one fact “There is no short cut, I just need to do it if I really want to get my top.” – しかし、最後には、自分の限界に挑戦できる環境にいる幸せ、そんな機会を与えてくれるクライミング、そしていつも見守ってくれる友人や家族への感謝。
だけれど、その現実と理想のギャップに抗い逃げなければ、時に複雑化してしまう思考は次第にシェイプされていくのだと。 – Now, it's going to be a bit madness in the world so that corona virus.
But I believe we can overcome this toughness time, like try on hard projecting proccesses. – 今、世界は新型コロナウイルスで混乱の真っ只中。
ハードなプロジェクトをトライする時のように。 – Pray for all of my world friends. — ※グレードについて
About the grade. I would give it 5.14d/15a for making flexibility of the grade so that I had just tried two 5.15 grade route so far.
But it was definitely hardest route ever for me. ルートは、出だしに2〜3段のランジがあり、その後も27手のボルダリーなムーブが続く5.14cをこなし、最後は7手の1〜2級を登ってトップアウトという内容です。グレードに関しては流動的に14d/15aとしましたが、今までトライしたことのあるルートのどれよりも格段に厳しいものでした。 —- —- ?by @hagi_satoru —- Big thanks to #lostarrow @patagonia_climb @patagoniajp @tokyopowder @trailbutter.jp @boulderpark_basecamp @climbparkbasecamp @kazahanapacks

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