Keita Kurakami recently sent his new Senjitsu no Ruri, a seven-pitch 5.14R on Mount Mizugaki in Japan. The hard granite route is the most difficult in the country and has run-outs up to 20 metres.
The route goes up the Moai Face at 5.12R, 5.13cR, 5.14R, 5.13dR/X, 5.10b, third class, 5.8. The 40-metre 5.13dR/X only takes three pieces of protection, a small nut, a cam and a slider.
He began work on the route last year and completed it this spring with Yusuke Sato.
A few days later, he established a new single-pitch 5.13bR on the same mountain called Spark.
The 30-metre route starts with 5.10 climbing up a crack that closes halfway before a seven-metre run-out on mircro-crimps up to 5.13d. Follow Kurakami on Instagram here.