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Late Season New Route in Bugaboos Looks Splitter

During an ice/mixed climb reconnaissance, climbers find and climb splitter new route in the Bugaboos.

Tim McAllister and Pat O’Sullivan were in the Bugaboos on Oct. 1 to scope early fall mixed conditions.

Tim O'Sullivan climbing The Middle Child 5.11 on Son of Snowpatch.  Photo Tim McAllister
Tim O’Sullivan climbing The Middle Child 5.11 on Son of Snowpatch. Photo Tim McAllister

They found dry rock and with decent weather climbed a new six-pitch 5.11 on a previously undocumented, but obvious, wall on Son of Snowpatch.

Their new route is called The Middle Child and has one pitch of 5.11b, three 5.10+ and a few 5.9. They fixed rappel stations after topping out Son of Snowpatch.

The Middle Child climbs the obvious buttress left of centre.  Photo Tim McAllister
The Middle Child climbs the obvious buttress left of centre. Photo Tim McAllister

McAllister is an IFMGA mountain guide and a visitor safety technician with Jasper National Park. Follow him on Instagram @timgmcallister.

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