Legendary Routesetter Jacky Godoffe Sets a Crack Problem

Jacky Godoffe is one of the world’s top routesetters. nearly 30 years ago. The first time he ever set was for women’s finals at the French National Championships in 1993.

He went on to create the universal speed climbing competition route, which we still use today; and he served on the IFSC Routesetting Commission for 10 years, and helped write the book on route setting. He still coaches and sets for the French climbing federation, and is one of 30 IFSC-certified World Cup route setters, who set the World Cups every year.

Watch him set a crack problem in 2022 below. In this episode he takes a crack at putting up a crack competition boulder, something that’s often lacking in modern competition training.

Jacky Godoffe Sets a Crack