Loic Zehani Makes Sixth 5.15b First Ascent
At 21 years old, he's quickly becoming one of Europe's top sport climbers with several 5.15 new routes
French climber Loic Zehani, 21, has been amassing an impressive list of first ascents over the past few years. His most recent new route is Quartiers nord 5.15b in Orgon, a new start to Bronx 5.14c – a climb established by his father Christophe Zehani.
On 8a.nu, Zehani wrote, “In total I think this route took me around 20 sessions. Amazing first part, natural and so powerful. Maybe 8B boulder out of the first twelve movements followed (without rest) by 10 movements around 7C/C+ boulder. After that you climb the second part of Bronx (8c+). Crazy morning when I sent it twice in one hour because the wind had knocked down the camera during the first send, the second send the camera (positioned in the car) did not fall. The conditions are amazing with a massive southeast wind.”
Earlier this year, Zehani made the first ascent of Mossoul and proposed the grade of 5.15b/c, which made it among the hardest routes in Europe. To date, his only 5.15b redpoints have been first ascents, he’s yet to repeat a 5.15b established by another climber. He’s also sent nearly 20 5.15a sport routes, with some being first ascents and many being repeats, like his repeat of Open Your Mind Direct.
Mossoul FA
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