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Looking for a Squamish 5.13 Crack to Project? Here’s the Newest

Watch Stu Smith take a big whipper before sending the abandoned project high in the Bulletheads. He called it Love as a Weapon

Stu Smith has added a hard new route to the Bulletheads North, an area that is home to some classic Squamish routes, such as Eurasian Eyes 5.13b and Wild Turkey 5.11a.

The crack climb had been attempted, but was abandoned years ago. It’s located at the top of the gulley separating the Bulletheads from the Tantalus Wall. For gear, Smith used a blue Totem to a Black Diamond number three.

Smith describes the line as, “Slightly overhanging crack line that looks a bit easier than it actually is. Pretty sporty through out. First half features a couple jams and mainly lay backing, the second half is compression climbing between two fissures and a dynamic crux at the top.”

In September, Ben Harnden made the first free ascent of the second pitch of Bladerunner at 5.14b/c on the Kashmir Wall. And earlier this year, Smith made the first repeat of the Prow Wall, a multi-pitch 5.14 first freed by Sonnie Trotter.

Love as a Weapon FA