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Lunar Tide is New Squamish North Walls 5.11

Jason Ammerlaan and Colin Moorehead established Lunar Tide, a new 250-metre 5.11d 10-pitch route up the Zodiac Wall recently.

The route starts up the classic Gone Surfin’ (first climbed in 1985 by Dean Hart and Randy Atkinson) and then heads up steep bolted aretes, roof cracks and splitters to the top of Upper Zodiac Wall.

Lunar Tide on Upper Zodiac Wall (approximate)

Ammerlaan first explored the possibility of extending Gone Surfin’ with Paul McSorley a few years ago. Ammerlaan then returned with others before the 2017 send.

The route is broken down as such: pitch one is 5.10b, pitch two is 5.11a, pitch three is 5.11d (The Pipe is a 15-metre roof chimney), pitch four is 5.10a and pitch five is the crux 5.11d (Techy and bolted arete).

Moving up pitch six is 5.10d, pitch seven is 5.9, pitch eight is 5.11c (The Barrel is big roof crack), pitch nine is 5.11a and the top pitch 10 is 5.8.

You need lots of gear and the trail off is a bit of a bushwhack. For more info visit here and for photos visit Squamish Rock Climbing on Facebook here.

Marc-Andre Leclerc on his North Walls route Temptation of Saint Anthony 5.13R/X. Photo Chris Christie