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Magician’s Apprentice is New Rockies 5.14 by Evan Hau

Calgary-based Evan Hau is fresh off his new 5.15a called Honour and Glory in Echo Canyon on Grotto Mountain in the Canadian Rockies.

He wasted no time continuing his first-ascent 2017 spree with his new climb Magician’s Apprentice 5.14b at Planet X in Cougar Creek in Canmore.

“We bolted an awesome route between Sticky Buns and The Illusionist,” said Hau. “It takes the overhanging blank looking section between Sticky Buns and The Illusionist.

“I had wondered if this part of the wall would go years ago but never took a closer look until this year.

“Turns out there are holds and with some intricate beta, actually not that hard. Fun times bolting with Josh Brennan and we even got a cool 5.11c intro pitch.”

Hau started the year with a climb of Seleccio Natural 5.14d in Spain, before putting countless attempts into opening his new 5.15a, the second 5.15 in Canada.

Planet X 5.14 Routes
Iron Butterfly 5.14c/d
The Prestige 5.14c
The Magician’s Apprentice 5.14b
Kurrgo 5.14a
The Illusionist 5.14a
Hot Fudge Cream Puff 5.14a

Below is a photo of Magician’s Apprentice as a project before Hau climbed it.