Calgary-based Evan Hau is fresh off his new 5.15a called Honour and Glory in Echo Canyon on Grotto Mountain in the Canadian Rockies.
He wasted no time continuing his first-ascent 2017 spree with his new climb Magician’s Apprentice 5.14b at Planet X in Cougar Creek in Canmore.
“We bolted an awesome route between Sticky Buns and The Illusionist,” said Hau. “It takes the overhanging blank looking section between Sticky Buns and The Illusionist.
Well that went quicker than expected! Unlocking the Planet X intracacies helped. The Magician's Apprentice 14b. Maybe soft but I think it is slightly harder than Kurrgo. Psyched on the send but bittersweet as I thought it would be harder when I was bolting it and I was looking forward to projecting it next year. Photo by Tadashi. @lasportivana @petzl_official @sheenastares #planetx #bowvalley #sendtember
“I had wondered if this part of the wall would go years ago but never took a closer look until this year.
“Turns out there are holds and with some intricate beta, actually not that hard. Fun times bolting with Josh Brennan and we even got a cool 5.11c intro pitch.”
Hau started the year with a climb of Seleccio Natural 5.14d in Spain, before putting countless attempts into opening his new 5.15a, the second 5.15 in Canada.
Planet X 5.14 Routes
Iron Butterfly 5.14c/d
The Prestige 5.14c
The Magician’s Apprentice 5.14b
The Illusionist 5.14a
Hot Fudge Cream Puff 5.14a
Below is a photo of Magician’s Apprentice as a project before Hau climbed it.
Great couple days new routing with @josh.brenn and @sheenastares at an old stomping ground. We bolted an awesome route between Sticky Buns and The Illusionist. The bottom slab has been done at around 11c. There is a midway anchor. We called it The Magician's Apprentice. I did all the moves on the upper part today, it will go at around 14b I think. I will try it next summer but if you're there and looking for something to try, feel free to jump on it, it's super fun! #planetx #newprojects #bowvalley @lasportivana @petzl_official