Less than two weeks after making the first winter solo ascent of Torre Egger, Marc-Andre Leclerc has made the first free ascent of Titanic. The 950-metre 5.10 A2 was first climbed in 1987 by Italians Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi. Leclerc had soloed some of it during his solo of Torre Egger. The following is a report from Leclerc about his Titanic ascent:

“With Austin Siadak supporting I led all the pitches. In the first section we bypassed an A1 section by climbing a very runout 5.10+ face pitch to the right. This gained an all time five-pitch ice runnel in an awesome dihedral. An A1 pitch at the top of the runnel went easily at M5 which brought us to the junction with The Martin/O’Neill linkup. Before the mid way snow arête, another wet A2 section was avoided by climbing overhanging 5.11 cracks on the right hand wall.

“The next day, after a bivy on the snow arête we started up the headwall. All the pitches went easily at 5.10 or less, but the steep arching undercling linking ramp systems was much more difficult.

“The pitch was reminiscent of the sloping undercling crux on University Wall but ended with an exit on 5.12 face to reach the belay. This took me four tries to figure out the cryptic and powerful boulder problem.

“Higher up a rock step in the mushrooms went with an overhanging M6 Boulder problem and a tension traverse was avoided with a 10-metre mixed downclimbed to gain the ice tube leading to the summit.

“Overall not a super hard climb, which is indicative of how few people are even trying to climb these peaks free. I think there is an epic amount of potential in this department in the Torres.”

Report error or omission

Related