Toronto-based Marieta Akalski has committed the majority of 2014 to sport climbing. She has spent the last little while in Spain and has made history, again.
Akalski just sent Florida 8c (5.14b) in Rodellar. Her first of the grade. She has become the third Canadian woman to climb 5.14b, after Ellen Powick and Josie Hetyie.
One week ago, Akalski had a flight booked to return to Canada, but as she said, sometimes flights need to change for projects. On Oct. 14, she wrote, “I’ve had a bit of a challenge getting on my new project with lack of partners in that sector. But this 5.14b I’m trying is totally epic. I only have one day left in Rodellar so might have to wait till next year or next time I’m here. Unless I think I can do it then I might change my flight.”
Staying for the week was obviously worth it as she sent the route.
“Florida challenged me not only physically, but also mentally more than any other climb,” said Akalski.
“For someone that is pretty solid in the mind, this route pushed me to my limit. My emotions fluttered left, right and centre as I fell over and over on the last move high up in the boulder problem crux.”
Marieta Akalski climbs 5.14a
“This internal battle made me come back stronger than ever. I took this pent-up emotional stress and turned it into fire when I reached the move that I had previously fallen multiple times on. I stared the hold down and I was more determined than ever that this time it will be different. This time I will not let go of it. This time I will clip the chains.”
“I think I’m still in shock that I actually climbed it.”