Mason Earle is one of the world’s best crack climbers and has recently sent a multi-year project.
After three years of effort, Earle climbed his new route at Bartlett Wash near Moab. He graded the overhanging crack 5.14- and said the opening sequence is a burly V8 and is followed by stout crack climbing.
“This crack has the wildest and most sustained movement of any route I’ve ever climbed,” wrote Earle on his Instagram. “And it’s severely overhanging for the entire 30 metres. A true geometric anomaly.”
Yesterday I sent my long term project in Bartlett Wash, outside of Moab. I found this crack in 2012, and have been working it on and off ever since. This crack has the wildest and most sustained movement of any route I’ve ever climbed, and it’s severely overhanging for the entire 30 meters. A true geometric anomaly. Yesterday I had the fire in my eyes, and I knew I could give it a solid go. It went down first try of the day with @sketchy_andy belaying in a swami and @miahwatt snapping pics. Head over to his page for a picture of the tape job I used on the route. Thanks to everybody who belayed me on this thing, and thanks to my Moab crew for giving me a home whilst I toiled away on the proj @eddiebauer @blackdiamond @fiveten_official
It’s gimmicky, it’s a stunt, but the only way I was able to climb my long time crack project was to take my shoe off. With my right foot taped, I was able to get solid foot jams thru the top half of the steep pitch. It did however, make the heel-hook mantle at the top a little more painful. @miahwatt photo of my post send tape job #crackclimbing
Watch Earle attempt the line in this EpicTV video: