Matt Fultz Makes Second Ascent of Beautiful Swiss V16
The strong American boulderer adds the line to his growing list of V16 sends
American climber Matt Fultz, 31, recently made the second ascent of Vecchio Leone Sit V16 (8C+) in Brione, Switzerland. The problem is a sit start version of the famous Vecchio Leone V13, which was put up by Bernd Zangrel in 2004. The V13 problem is an area classic that’s been sent by some of the world’s top boulderers including Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, Jimmy Webb, Giuliano Cameroni, and Daniel Woods.
Aidan Roberts made the FA of the sit start back in Fall 2022. Via Instagram, he had this to say about his about the intricate climbing on his first ascent: “This one is a bit of an age old project. Very obvious and rather deceptive. Upon first glance it looks as though a jump would be the easy solution but some subtle texture and rounded holds make them too poor to maintain tension, the alternative swing being far too wild for myself! Instead some poor feet and complex body tension was the solution for me.”
According to his 8a.nu page, Fultz now has an impressive seven V16’s to his name. Vecchio Leone Sit is his first European V16. His six previous V16 ascents were all in the United States, his first being Hypnotized Minds in Rocky Mountain National Park back in 2020. On 8a.nu, he’s logged ascents of 19 V15’s, 44 V14’s and 109 V13’s.
Fultz sent Vecchio Leone V13 back in 2020 on his second go. Roberts and Will Bosi both flashed the problem in 2022. Shawn Raboutou didn’t have as much luck and it turned into a bit of nemesis problem for him. You can watch him work the tough, awkward moves to an eventual redpoint below.