German climber Alex Megos has made the first ascent of Perfecto Mundo 5.15c at Margalef, Spain.
This is the first 5.15c Megos has climbed and he’s only the third climber to ever tick the grade.
Perfecto Mundo was bolted by Chris Sharma and it’s been the centre of projecting by him, Stefano Ghisolfi and Megos this spring.
I'm incredibly relieved. This has been an important process in my climbing career and clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+ as well as getting the FA was an incredible experience. Thank you to @chris_sharma for bolting this thing and the good sessions over the last couple of weeks and big thanks to my good friend @steghiso for belaying me on the send, for being a big source of motivation and a great inspiration to me. And last but not least thank you @ken_etzel for being up there every day with me and capturing all this. @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @patagonia @redbullgermany @goretexeu @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @dmm_wales @entreprisesclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @multicamper_adventure #stylefirst #carrotsforpower
Sharma said on Instagram after Megos’ send, “I envisioned and bolted this climb about nine years ago and this route has a really special place in my heart.
“For me it epitomizes the definition of what a next level sport climb should be. Non stop hard climbing on small pockets and crimps up a beautiful sweeping wall. The crux is this crazy dead point from the shallow flat mono to this amazing pinch (his left hand in the photo).
“It was great to share some inspiring days climbing together on it along with Ghisolfi over the last couple weeks. It’s got me fired up, motivated and hungry to clip the chains myself one day. Hats off mate! Now you have to go find something that’s actually hard for you.”
Megos made the first ascent of Fight Club 5.15b in Banff, Canada’s first 5.15 back in 2016.
Adam Ondra has climbed a number of 5.15c routes, including Change, Dura Dura, Vasil Vasil, and one harder with Silence 5.15d. Sharma climbed Dura Dura back in 2013, his only 5.15c.
Watch Megos attempt Perfecto Mundo about a week before his send.