Alex Megos hasn’t caught up to Adam Ondra’s three 5.14d onsights yet, but he is one step closer with his send of TCT 5.14d in Gravere, Italy.
The route was first climbed by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2014 and named in honour of Titi Claudio Traversa, who died sport climbing in 2013 at only 12. Ghisolfi worked on the route for years before piecing it together.
Ondra fist onsighted TCT in 2014 on the same day he nearly onsighted La prophétie des grenouilles 5.14d.
In an interview with UKclimbing.com, Megos said, “I climbed the first 8c [5.14b] part quite well, but got quite pumped as well. Managed to rest a little bit before the last part. An 8m long 45 degree head wall with big moves on incut crimps.
OOPS I DID IT AGAIN! When people ask if I can onsight 9a I would say "no". I never felt at a level where onsighting 9a felt in reach. But total I started to realise that I might be able to get to that level! What a great day at Gravere where I after more than 4 years did my second 9a onsight! What a feeling! Thanks @marci_bomb for belaying and @claudiaghisolfi for encouraging! @redbulladventure @redbullgermany @patagonia_climb @dmm_wales @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @vertical.life.climbing @frictionlabs
“Got the sequence right, and somehow found myself on top. With a few difficulties at the end to clip the anchor because I couldn’t find the top jug.”
Watch Ghisolfi make the first ascent of the burly route in this great video below.