More Top Canadian Sends of 2015

Here is a short list of some of the big sends that made headlines in 2015.

In 2015, a number of firsts went down for Canadian climbers. From first ascents to grade breakthroughs, climbers across Canada climbed hard to accomplish their goals.

Here are five Canadian firsts and five noteworthy ascents by international climbers in Canada that made headlines this year.

Sabrina Chapman’s Sends at Lion’s Head

Toronto-based Sabrina Chapman sent Man in Me 5.13d at Lion’s Head, one of the cliff’s hardest lines, in the summer. It is likely the most difficult send at Lion’s Head by a Canadian woman.

The 35-metre route is at the Titan Wall and after her send, Chapman said, “I really am still in shock, but so happy!”

Raphael Slawinski and Tainted Love

On the north face of Mount Lawrence Grassi above Canmore is a steep chimney once dubbed “the town gash.” After a number of visits, Raphael Slawinski made the first ascent of the 320-metre WI3 M9 and called it Tainted Love.

Slawinski climbed it on Nov. 28 with Juan Henriquez and Colin Simon. Read about the first ascent on Slawinski’s blog here.

Wright, Funk and Pic Send 5.14

Many Canadians broke the 5.14 barrier in 2015. In December, Andrew Funk sent Mal De Isla 5.14a at Chulilla in Spain. After his send, he said, Ultra pumped, most of my fingers were bleeding and I almost pumped off the finish hold. Not the most beautiful send, but I did it nonetheless.”

Earlier in the year, Quebec climber Axel Pic sent Pic sent Alpha Beta 5.14a at Mount Orford. The route is steep and was one of the first 5.14s in the province. After his send, Pic said, “Orford is well known for its highly technical climbing because it is very kneebar intensive and you must execute your climb perfectly in order to save your energy. Especially since the rock has little friction.”

Also this year, Squamish-based climber Tom Wright sent his first 5.14 with the first ascent of Spirit of the West 5.14a at a new crag in Paradise Valley near Squamish.

Wright is a U.K. climber, but has been in Canada for many years and is the programming manager of the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival.

Canadians Climb New Routes in Yukon

In the spring, Rockies climbers Jay Mills, Eamonn Walsh and Carl Diehl visited the Kluane Mountains. They climbed a number of icy routes. One of the highlights were the first ascent of the north ridge of Wiesshorn III.

They were funded in part by the Alpine Club of Canada’s John Lauchlan Memorial Award.

Bonar McCallum and the Danger Zone

Bonar McCallum had a breakthrough 2014 as he sent his first 5.14s. In the summer of 2015, he sent a fine looking line in Echo Canyon that had been catching climber’s eyes for year.

With Kevin Wilson, he sent the new Highway to the Danger Zone that starts with a 5.12a and is followed by a 5.12b pitch. The final 35-metre third-pitch is 5.13c and called the Maverick Pitch.

International sends in Canada: 

A number of international climbers made significant sends this year. Here are five stories that made headlines this year.

Americans Climb Heart of Darkness

In the early 1980s, Perry Beckham, Greg Child and Joe Buszowski attempted a striking couloir between the Northeast Ridge and North Rib on Mount Slesse and called it the Heart of Darkness.

This spring, Americans Colin Haley and Dylan Johnson made the first ascent of the unclimbed feature.

After the climb, Haley said, “This much discussed objective had been attempted by some very experienced and talented local alpinists over the years: Roger Strong, Jeremy Frimer, John Millar, and especially Guy Edwards.

“Why were we able to finally succeed? Simple – very fortuitous timing and therefore absolutely excellent conditions. The crux section had on previous attempts turned people back because of very poorly protected, insecure and difficult mixed climbing.”

Adam Ondra Visits Squamish

Adam Ondra visited the West Coast this spring for the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival and to be part of the international climbing camp in Victoria.

On his visit, he sent Silent Menace 5.14c in Squamish on his second attempt. It was the fastest redpoint of the route to date. He then attempted Dreamcather 5.14d, but fell from seeping pin-scars halfway across the slopey rail.

The Edge of Pan

Americans Jesse Huey and Brette Harrington repeated the difficult Edge of Pan 5.13 on the Pan Wall on The Chief in Squamish this summer.

It was freed in 2011 by Sonnie Trotter. This summer, Huey and Harrington rappelled in for a go. Huey had been on the route before, but it was Harrington’s first look and on the way down she scoped the gear placements. She then attempted a flash of the 5.13 corner, but came off before the top. Huey then made the historic second clean lead of Edge of Pan.

Harrington returned with Marc-Andre Leclerc for a clean send of the thin corner. Harrington wrote on Instagram (follow her @bretteharrington), “I returned to Edge of Pan this morning for the send! Six days ago I belayed Mr. Jesse Huey on the second ascent of this knife-blade corner.

“The relentless stemming pumped my legs as I slipped on my flash attempt, but today the cool wind and good company made for a perfect sending recipe.”

New Routes in the Bugaboos

This summer, Americans Chris Weidner and Bruce Miller made the first free ascent of their 2006 route called Reinhold Pussycat at 5.12c on the northwest face South Howser Tower.

In the fall, the strong Japanese team of Takeshi Tani and Toshiyuki Yamada climbed a new route on the northeast face the South Howser Tower. Their new route is called It Is What It Is D+ M5 WI4R.

Canadian mountain guide Tim McAllister, a Bugaboos regular, had visited the area twice in the past year to climb it, but ended up climbing two other new routes, one in 2014 and one in the fall of 2015.

The 2015 route was a new five-pitch 5.11c on Little Snowpatch he climbed with Pat O’Sullivan called The Middle Child.

Big New Newfoundland 5.12

Sam Bendroth and Bayard Russell climbed the new Betrayer of Hope, a 12-pitch 5.12c this summer. Their 400-metre line goes up right of Lucifer’s Lighthouse 5.12c that was first climbed in 2006 by Chris Weidner and Justen Sjong.

– This is a small selection of top sends by Canadians this year in and out of Canada. There are so many more ascents, stories and epics from Canadians and by international climbers in Canada that would fit well on such a list. For more top sends by Canadians in 2015, visit here. Follow Gripped on Instagram here.