Muriel Sarkany has became the fourth woman to climb 5.14d, 9a, after sending Punt X at Gorges du Loop in France.
Sarkany started climbing when she was 15, now 39, she has made history by sending her hardest route ever. When competition climbing was still in its early stages Sarkany was at the top of the leader board time and time again, her total UIAA and IFSC comp wins makes her one of the most decorated competition climbers ever.
The first woman to climb 5.14d, 9a, was Josune Bereciartu who sent Bain de Sang in Saint Loup, Switzerland. Next was Charlotte Durif in 2011 with her send of PPP in Grotte de Galetas at the Verdon Gorge. It was only last year, 2012, that Sasha DiGiulian sent Erra Vella in Margalef, Spain.
Sarkany’s Facebook comment sums up her feelings: “YES I DID IT!!! I just did my first[ 5.14d] 9a, Punt-X !!! I’m so happy!!!!!!!!!! A lot of work but so much pleasure when I clipped the anchor;-))))))”
Sarkany’s comment on 8a.nu: “It is a dream which becomes reality! To make one [5.14d] 9a, I dreamed about it and I did not think that it would become true one day.
I looked a lot to find this route and as soon as I tried it, I felt that one day I could make it. I did not make all the moves and I couldn’t do three sequences without stopping. The holds are small and the moves are bouldery, but it wasn’t morpho for me.
It was a big investment in time and in energy, but the result was really worth it! Ready for the next project, but while waiting for to find it, I have only a desire: Try many new routes.”