My Little Pony 5.12d Trad in Squamish Seeing Sends
One local once called it the "eighth climbing wonder of Squamish"
My Little Pony is a 5.12d on the Pony Wall at Cheakamus Canyon, north of Squamish. First climbed by Craig McGee in 2007, it’s been repeated a number of times, including by Evan Stevens, Jamie Finlayson, Jared Nelson and Akira Mori.
This summer, My Little Pony has been getting some attention, possibly because it’s a shady place to climb out of the heatwave temps. Takuya Nakamura, who recently moved to Squamish, redpointed the burly roof last week. And Quebec crusher Jérôme St-Michel sent the steep line yesterday.
Stevens, now a mountain guide on the west coast, asked St-Michel, “Are people still clipping the terrible temporary 1/4” bolt we put in on the first ascent or has it been removed/replaced? I used to call it the eighth climbing wonder of Squamish. Glad it’s still getting done.” To which Michel said, “It’s still there, and we whipped on it.”
Stevens used to keep an updated blog, on which he wrote about My Little Pony, saying: “You see, My Little Pony is the twisted name that my good friend, and badass mountain guide Craig McGee gave his new 30ft, 5.12+ hand and fist roof crack that he free climbed last fall here in Squamish… Recently, a friend and I went to check this thing out, and try and do the second ascent. It is a perfect route for us to tackle right now, because ‘June-uary’ is in full effect in the Pacific North-Wet; the rains will not stop! Luckily, there are a few secret caves that stay dry in the rain, so climbers like me can get their fixes!”
My Little Pony in 2008
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