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Neil Gresham Sends New E11 7a with Lexicon

The bold trad route took the leading climber a year to redpoint

Neil Gresham recently made the first ascent of Lexicon, an E11 7a at Pavey Ark in the U.K. Over the past 20 years, the top climber has repeated a number of burly routes, including Final Score E10 7a and Equilibrium E10 7a.

Gresham said in an interview that he started projecting the heady line in October 2020. About the grade, he said, “If you look at the breakdown of Lexicon (8b+ with 80-foot fall potential from a last move crux and the promise of a hard strike) compared to most E9s and E10s, then on paper it looks like an E11, but not compared to all of them! There are always hard anomalies at each grade, which skew things.”

Be sure to follow Gresham on social media below for more hard sends from over the Atlantic, and watch a film from 2016 about Gresham’s passion for new routes.

10 Gresham Trad FAs

Final Score E10 7a Iron Crag, U.K.
Fearless E9 6c, Dove Crag, U.K.
Ironed Out E8 7a, Iron Crag, U.K.
Airdrawndagger E8 6c, Pembroke, U.K.
Boiling Point E8 6b, Itatiaia, Brazil
Gravediggers E8 6c Llanberis, U.K.
Firefox E7 6c, Jossingfjord, Norway
The Wickerman E7 6c, Lundy, U.K.
Hot Since ‘82 E5 6b, Burnt Crag, Lake District, U.K.
Post Modern Arete E6 6c, Halle, Sweden

Footsteps of a Legend