New 20-Pitch Climb on El Capitan in Yosemite
Oliver Tippett has climbed new ground to make the first ascent of Cardiac Arrest
Oliver Tippett has completed a new route on El Capitan, alone, that he’s called Cardiac Arrest (VI 5.8 A3). The majority of the stone he climbed on Cardiac Arrest was not part of an existing line. He wrote in his UK Climbing logbook that it’s 20 pitches: “A new aid route located close to the Heart Route, but sharing most pitches with Verano Magico.”
Earlier this year, he was part of several El Capitan speed ascents, including Virginia in a time of 9:24 with Brant Hysell; KAOS in 18:12 with Anton Korsun; Reticent Wall in 21:57 with Lance Colley and Brandon Adams; and Sea of Dreams in 21:33 with Miles Fullman and Brandon Adams. All Yosemite speed records here.
About the grade of Cardiac Arrest, Tippett said, “A note on the grade for those who care – I’m pretty disillusioned with any aid grading system. Modern A3 to me means potential for 30ft falls but nothing to hit, which I believe fits what I did. It says nothing about how thin some of the climbing is between the good gear.”
Tippett is one of the most accomplished El Cap aid soloists in the game today. Over the past few years, he’s amassed an impressive list of El Capitan solos, including several test-piece aid routes. Visit him on Instagram below for more.
